By Janny Li

Janet Armitage (left) and Janny Li (right) on a sunrise elephant ride to Amber Fort in Jaipur.

The unofficial garbage collector of Jaipur.

Cows have the right of way in Bangalore.
These animals, as it turns out, do many things. Cows eat food waste that can’t be recycled. Pigs eat what the cows don’t eat. Dogs eat what the pigs don’t eat. Cow dung is collected and sold as fuel in the informal economy. Cows are also objects of worship bringing good luck to folks who greet them by touching their forehead as a sign of respect. Some dogs are stray. Others are pets (as evident by the vests their owners lovingly put on them in cold weather). Water buffalo, horses, and mules act as draught animals transporting supplies alongside car traffic. Elephants and camels transport tourists to palaces and forts. Cobras work alongside their charmers to entertain passersby by swaying drunkenly to the tune of the punji. Temple monkeys eat popcorn and bananas sold by vendors to worshippers. These animals elicit emotions from people ranging from indifference to reverence.

Snake charmers and their cobras in front of the Hawa Mahal or “Palace of Winds” in Jaipur.
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About the Author
Janny Li is Associate Professor of Anthropology at East Los Angeles College in California.